Birding at Deepor Beel
“You will have to go further
into the lake to see the birds.”
“But how does one go there?”
“You can take a boat.”
“Where will I get a boat from?”
“I have a boat. I will
take you there.”
This was the conversation that proved to be the turning
point in our trip to Deepor Beel in Guwahati, Assam.
Deepor Beel is a vast freshwater wetland located in the south
western part of Guwahati. It is a
natural habitat to many varieties of flora and fauna. Around 219 species of
birds including more than 70 migratory species have been reported in the area.
More about Deepor Beel here.
Cormorants over Deepor Beel
We were visiting Guwahati during mid-January in 2013 and
decided to pay a visit to the area. On the morning of the trip, the husband and
I had a big tiff and we sat in the car with sullen faces while my dad sat
behind with the baby. Not a good sign, I said to myself. We took the NH-37 and
turned left at an intersection called Gorchuk. We had hardly driven a few
metres when we were met by a sign saying that the bridge connecting the Beel had broken down. Not a good sign, I repeated.
Nevertheless, we enquired with a few locals on an alternate
route and were advised to turn around and take the Delhi Public School road. We
drove on as directed and quite easily reached Deepor Beel . We parked the car
near a watch tower beside the wetland and were dismayed to see a busload of picnickers
alighting. It was a Sunday and Bihu time, hence the festive mood surrounding all
and sundry.
We tried to ignore the loud music coming from the direction
of the revelers and moved towards the Beel. Disappointment struck us hard. All
we could see were scores of black kites circling about, some egrets and a few
cormorants. My previous forebodings came back – today was definitely a bad, bad
day. The husband tried to keep up a brave face and started clicking at the
stray wagtails bobbing about. While he was thus engaged, a person stole up
behind him and looked at the pictures on his camera monitor. “You will have to go further into the lake to
see the birds,” he said. And so it happened.
A flock of egrets at Deepor Beel
An array of boats
Citrine Wagtail
The person, let’s call him Mr. Das (I am not revealing his
name as he is engaged with the forest department and the boat is his ‘side-business’
owing to extreme financial difficulties), got a long and narrow boat for us in
a few minutes. We entered the shallow waters, surrounded by water lily leaves. “In
a few months’ time these leaves will grow into giant size,” informed Mr. Das. He
also told us that these water lilies will then produce makhana (Euryale ferox) or fox nut. They seemed to be a favourite of elephants
who would come down from the adjoining hills and forest.
The cold winter morning wind lashed at us while we scanned the water
for signs of birds other than the black kites. Suddenly, the husband pointed
his camera towards the banks of the Beel where there seemed to be some kind of
frantic movement. To our delight, we spotted a tremendous fight take place
between a greater adjutant stork and a steppe eagle (?), their wings spread wide in defense Although the fight ended abruptly with the stork emerging as the
winner, it proved that the day had just unfolded and it was no more a ‘bad day’. Later during the day, we saw quite a few lesser as well as greater adjutant storks.
The fight between the Greater Adjutant Stork and the Eagle
Full action..
The stork wins..
My dad had, meanwhile, knocked a good rapport with Mr. Das, given their
forest background, and they were carrying on an intense conversation on elephants
and other issues. We enjoyed listening to their banter as much as we enjoyed
the boat ride. Egrets and open billed storks flew past us as our little boat
coursed through the water. Mr. Das would point to us the areas wherever elephants
had forayed for their food during the night. We were a little dismayed to learn
from him that most of the migratory birds had left the Beel on 6th
January, almost a week ahead our visit. These included several species of water
birds such as greylag goose, northern shoveler, mallard, Eurasian widgeon, eastern
spot billed duck as well as pelicans.
Asian Open billed Stork
Greater Adjutant Stork
I remembered my mom telling me about a flock of brown headed sea gulls which
had suddenly appeared in Deepor Beel last year and was reported in the media.
Mr. Das confirmed the news and said that lot of rare birds used to come to the Beel in previous years. While fishing is banned in the area, some fishermen continue
to do so stealthily.
Barn Swallow
Northern Pintail in flight
The sun was rising fast up in the sky and we could see a number of
other birds like bronze winged jacana, grey headed lapwing and northern lapwing
amidst the reeds. We enquired about the presence of pheasant tailed jacana and were
informed that they always came to lay their eggs on the water lily leaves
during the breeding season. Since the leaves had not reached their actual size
yet, the pheasant tailed jacanas were not prominent in the area.
Intermediate Egrets and Purple Moorhen
It was around two hours that we were in the Beel and we decided to turn
around before the sun turned on its full glory upon us. While returning, we saw
several little grebes playfully skimming across the water in their trademark ‘walking
on water’ style. Soon, we reached the
bank of the Beel where we could see the preparation of picnic lunch in full
swing. It was time to say goodbye to the genteel Mr. Das who had humbly
admitted that his knowledge was gained from interacting with expert birders
through his career. “It is strange that I know most of the migratory water
birds’ name and yet I don’t know the local birds from the hills,” he said.
Little Grebe
Little Cormorant
White breasted Kingfisher
We paid him his fees and made our way to the car. Somehow, we were
unwilling to leave the Beel and decided to take a small drive around the area. There
were hills bordering the wetland and despite the late birding hour, we came
across our first sighting of the daurian redstart, a winter visitor to the
north eastern part of India. We also saw a group of chestnut tailed starlings
and Asian pied starlings in a harvested field.
Daurian Redstart
Chestnut tailed Starling
Finally, we had our fill of birding and made our way back home. I was
happy that the day turned out so well, compared to its beginning. For once, my
dad was proved wrong about his philosophy of “Morning shows the day”. Although we
had missed the better part of migratory birds, the boat ride and the conversations
that took place with Mr. Das through its course was worth the visit.
“We will come again next time?” I asked the husband, forgetting all our
differences in the morning. He nodded cheerfully. Till next year then!
Complete list of birds sighted:
Steppe Eagle (?), Greater Adjutant Stork, Lesser Adjutant Stork, Grey Heron, Purple Heron, Purple
Moorhen, Little Cormorant, Northern Pintail, Gadwall, Little Grebe, Fulvous Whistling Duck, Chestnut
tailed Starling, Asian Pied Starling, Intermediate Egret, Little Egret, Citrine
Wagtail, White Wagtail, Grey Wagtail, Daurian Redstart, Barn Swallow, White
Breasted Kingfisher, Red vented Bulbul, Black Kite, Bronze winged Jacana, Grey
headed Lapwing, Northern Lapwing, Common Sandpiper, Wood Sandpiper, Little Stint.
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